A Review: The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA

by - February 03, 2018

3 bottles of The Ordinary's Lactic Acid 10% + HA
I'm trippin' on (lactic) acid!

I think that right now is a pretty good time for me to review this product because I am currently making headway into my third bottle. I have been using The Ordinary's 10% Lactic Acid Serum consistently since late October, 2017. There are some other products the Ordinary makes that I have been using as well so reviews should be forthcoming.  [UPDATE May 13, 2018: I finished the third bottle of lactic acid, but did not open more. This is partly due to suffering overexfoliation at the hand of another product from The Ordinary, but mainly because I started using tretinoin. Tretinoin is the fully active version of retinol and it does not joke around. In order to use it safely I temporarily dropped all other acids out of my routine, and have been reintroducing them gradually. Lactic acid and other AHAs are not a priority for me at this time because we are heading into summer. AHAs cause increased photo-sensitivity and so does tretinion. I have opted to instead use BHAs and vitamin C as my other actives at this time.]

In the last several months have been trying an absolute tonne of new skincare products and I know that it is very hard to gauge results when there is so much going onto my face. Here's the thing though; of everything I have been using this product is the one I never want to skip. In fact, I thought it would be a good idea (why, why?) to leave this behind while travelling to visit family over the Christmas holidays, and boy did I ever regret it. Within 3 days of no longer using my lovely lactic acid I could see changes and not for the better.

My skin loves chemical exfoliation and does not love, or even like, physical exfoliation. Daily, often twice daily, application of The Ordinary's Lactic Acid 10% + HA keeps my skin baby soft, purges closed comedones from my face in the form of grits during oil cleansing, reduces the amount and duration of breakouts, and oddly enough keeps my skin from being too thirsty. I don't want to get into it here but lactic acid is a hydrophilic molecule - meaning that it pulls water towards itself - and so it shouldn't actually surprise me that an acid doesn't dry out my skin. Still, I grew up in the age of Clearasil 'moisturizers' leaving skin tight and flaking so I guess my expectations were low. For a quick and fun look into how skincare acids can work for you visit this excellent blog.

Lactic Acid is pretty nice and non-irritating to me, however I do not have sensitive skin overall. My experience is that this particular acid feels soothing during application as well as during the wait time I give it to work in. The only time I experience any tingling or stinging is if I have dry flaky patches from insufficiently moisturizing creams (Benton, I'm looking at you) during cold winter weather. It does sting on open acne sores, but I consider that a bonus? I mean, it doesn't really hurt much or for very long and it is only on the exact spot that a whitehead has decided to burst. The way I see it; that jerk had it coming.

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA viewed in dropper
A slightly pink liquid as viewed through the dropper

I do have some quibbles with The Ordinary over product consistency. The first bottle I ordered had a serum-like texture with a lot of slip and easy spreadability. The second bottle (and the third) were ordered about a month after the first and have a completely different texture. This time the lactic acid is less like a serum and more like a toner. If you have ever used Hada Labo Gokujyun Light Lotion, then you'll know what I mean when I say it is like water but with a slippery feel. It still spreads smoothly across my skin but I am using it up way faster than I was before. The serum-texture lactic acid was better in my opinion because I felt that I could place it on my skin more precisely. With the new, watery texture I am using an entire dropper-full each time in order to get the amount I need on my face, neck and upper chest. Maybe other people will enjoy the liquid texture more since it allows you to spread it more thinly. Me, I need that sweet, sweet acid all up in here.

I checked it out on their website and this is what they have to say about the change in texture:

Our formulations are updated from time to time as part of our commitment to innovation. As such, the ingredient list shown here may vary from the box of the product depending on time and region of purchase. Lactic Acid has a natural odour that some people find unpleasant. This formula was updated in October 2017 to use a grade of lactic acid that has no odour per customer feedback. Additionally, this update removed the use of carrageenan, a seaweed-based viscosity-enhancer, also due to feedback from customers. These changes improve the sensory aspects of the formula but do not impact efficacy.

So there you have it, they made it thinner in texture purposely and not due to batch inconsistencies which frankly, I was worried about. I mean, the stuff is so damn cheap! And their CEO is so damn strange..

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA on my hand
A very runny texture sometimes makes it harder to apply

Something I haven't yet mentioned is that the "HA" in the name of the product refers to hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is not a chemical exfoliant despite having 'acid' in its name. Instead, it is a substance found naturally in your skin that holds onto water molecules and maintains skin hydration. I use other skincare products containing hyaluronic acid so I do not look to my chemical exfoliant to provide any hydration even though its nice to see it in there.

Lactic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA from now on) that was originally derived from milk. These days there are synthetic ways of producing it and I believe (but am not sure) that this is how The Ordinary sources the lactic acid they use in this formulation as well as the other acids on their menu. Their description of Lactic Acid 10% + HA:

Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxyl acid that exfoliates the skin. This 10% formulation offers mild exfoliation and is supported with a purified Tasmanian pepperberry known to reduce signs of inflammation and sensitivity that is often associated with exfoliation. A milder 5% formula is available here. This formula contains a studied Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative to help reduce irritation associated with acid use. This derivative is of plant origin and varies in colour seasonally and this colour variation may be apparent in the formula from time to time. Contraindications: Lactic Acid should not be used on sensitive, peeling or compromised skin. Please refer to additional sun protection note and other warnings in provided Directions. This pH of this formula is approximately 3.8. Lactic Acid has a pKa of 3.8 and pKa is the most important aspect to consider in formulating with acids. pKa implies acid availability. When pKa is close to pH, there is an ideal balance between salt and acidity, maximizing effectiveness of the acid and reducing irritation. Higher pH numbers in such a case would increase salt which counter-intuitively would make the formula even more irritating than if the formula was more acidic. Note: While Lactic Acid can result in quick visible benefits, we generally suggest indirect forms of skin exfoliation in favour of direct forms such as this formula due to potential inflammation and sensitivity associated with acids. Please refer to NIOD's Non-Acid Acid Precursor for such a reference.

I mean, yeah, you should definitely wear sunscreen and I do appreciate the explanation about the pH and the importance of pKa. That information tells me that The Ordinary sees the intelligence and passion skincare lovers have about the things they choose to put on their faces. BUT. That plug for NIOD's Long-Name-Not-An-Acid is just that. A product plug. In my opinion, The Ordinary exists as a marketing tool to get us looking into Deciem's other (more expensive) brands. I know that I personally would never have looked at their other lines if not for my curiosity about The Ordinary. That said, I am really happy that I can get effective skincare for cheap. Rant over - now let's get back to our regularly scheduled programming!

Ingredients:

Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isoceteth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.

Overall, I am really satisfied with the effectiveness of The Ordinary's Lactic Acid 10% + HA. The price for 30mL is 6.70 CAD and it lasts about a month if you slather in on twice daily as I generally do. There are definitely better lactic acid serums out there but not at this price point. Maybe one day when I am rolling in cash (heh, not likely) I will try some of them out. For the foreseeable future I will be purchasing from The Ordinary.

My Rating:

4/5 - I like it. I would strongly consider purchasing it again or even gifting it to a loved one

To see how I rate products click here.



I am not affiliated in any way with any brands and these products were purchased by me with my own money. I am reviewing them because I feel strongly that more reviews of more products leads to better information for everyone.

You May Also Like

1 comments

  1. A high-strength lactic acid peeling formula for smoother, healthier-looking skin. Highlighted Ingredients: - Tasmanian Pepperberry: Reduces visible signs of inflammation and sensitivity that are often associated with exfoliation. - Lactic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin.
    lactic acid 10 + ha benefits

    ReplyDelete

Skincare by Moonlight is a friendly place. Any mean-spirited comments will be removed.