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Skincare by Moonlight

Skincare by Moonlight 2019
Did you know I only have one face? My cleansers stash doesn't know that.

It's been ages since I truly updated this blog and would like to briefly (ha, no) outline my current routine. I've been trying to keep my routine fairly stable because it is the only way to test if products really work. That said, I am nowhere near as rigorous as some so please take my results with a hefty dose of skepticism.

In the morning I cleanse with a swipe of KEEP COOL Soothe Water (gifted by the brand) on a pad, while in the evening I double cleanse with either DHC Deep Cleansing Oil or The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Rich Cleansing Oil (gifted by a close friend). Sometimes, I mix a pump of each of those oils because they combine to make a long-lasting grits-busting facial massage oil cleanse. For my second step of double cleansing, I use either COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser or Hada Labo Gokujyun Foaming Face Wash. When I am feeling tired and lazy I skip oil cleansing and just wipe my face with cleansing water before using my second cleanser. In the picture above you will see a lot more products than what I have listed here. That is because most of the images in this blog update are doing double duty as part of the #ABnewyearstashchallenge over on Instagram. Some of the cleansers are unopened, some of them have been pH tested and then given away to Glowies with less sensitive skin, and some, like the Nooni Snowflake Stick Cleanser are so close to being finished that I'm only using it as a convenient travel cleanser.

Skincare by Moonlight 2019
My toner stash and a lovely chunk of my favourite gem; dioptase


I use a plethora of toners after cleansing because I have a serious skincare boner for toners. Toner boner, ha! Typically, I splash the toner onto my palm, spread it across both palms, and then rub/pat it into my skin. Occasionally I use a pad to swipe the toner on but that is pretty rare for me. So what do I use and in what order? We-ell, lemme tell you!


  • Skinfood Tea Tree Clearing Toner - mildly astringent, alcohol-free, watery and absorbs nearly instantly, it appears to assist my other acne-fighting products 
  • Hada Labo Gokujyun Lotion Moist - packed full of glycerin and different types of hyaluronic acid, very hydrating, somewhat thick and sticky, a routine staple for me 
  • KEEP COOL Soothe Toner (gifted by the brand) - lighter than Hada Labo but still very hydrating, it cuts the stickiness caused by the Hada Labo 
  • Mebika Moist Lotion - full of ceramides and different forms or rice bran, it can cause stickiness and oiliness if used for the 7 skin method, 1 layer helps to keep my skin hydrated while my serums have time to work 
  • Eleven Huesday Deeply Control Balancing Toner (gifted by Korean Kiwi Beauty) - this is just a wee mini-size bottle that won't be in my routine long enough to evaluate it fully, but this toner appears to split the difference between exfoliating and hydrating. 
Skincare by Moonlight 2019


Now onto serums! I am super interested in the idea of skincare 'actives' that are not acids or retinoids, although I love those too. All the serums that I have tried to date have much slower, and more subtle effects than the more powerful actives I use. Initially, I was disheartened by this lack of visible progress and I began to give up on the category of serums as a whole. Thankfully, I have implemented a new serum testing process that shows measurable results.

  • I'm From Ginseng Serum - this is one of the serums that I felt wasn't doing anything at all so I shoved it to the back of my skincare shelf for several months. Recently I have begun using it again as just a single drop swiped over the deep line that runs horizontally across my forehead. I'm keeping an eye out for changes but I don't expect to see anything for at least a month. 
  • TMYS 01 Iconic Brightening Essence (gifted by the brand) - at first I thought this serum was useless too. I figured that it was going to be all hype and nothing more, but I was proven very, very, wrong. I place this on 6 specific points on my face and carefully make sure not to spread away from those places. Because of this method I can see a distinct line of brightening in each area of application. It took one month before I noticed any changes but now they are obvious even to the untrained eye. 
  • Eleven Huesday Anti-Stress Recover Serum (gifted by Korean Kiwi Beauty) - I am absolutely blown away by this product. I saw initial results within a week!! I use only one drop that is spread across both of my cheek bones and nose because these are the areas with some of my most persistent acne, bumps, irritation, and redness. This serum deserves its own post so I will say no more for now. 
You may have noticed that I touched on actives without actually placing them within my routine. This is because I am reevaluating which actives I use and when I should be using them. Actives that I tend to use before toners are The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid and/or The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution (blog post here). I also use The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane, but I usually apply that near the end of my routine. It is nearly empty and so I will be opening the 1% retinol bottle next.

After my serums have had a few moments of uninterrupted rest on my skin I like to follow up with products that go over my whole face and neck. Also, now is when I use eye creams generally, and didn't I say my routines tend to be a bit extra? What I actually meant was that my routines are extra AF! To me, my routines feel normal and not overly long but when I type it all out I realize that I have written an essay.

So, eye creams. I need to write a separate blog post about them too because I have been running a year-long eye cream experiment complete with progress pictures. In short, I use one eye cream on my right side and another on my left side, then after two months I switch the sides. The eye creams I am using this minute are Swanicoco Biologia Fermentation Care Eye Cream and Elizavecca Gold CF-Nest White Bomb Eye Cream. I am diligent about making sure I apply eye creams regularly in order to maintain the integrity of my eye cream experiment, but I do fudge with their placement in my routine. Sometimes I apply them immediately after serums but before full-face treatments, and other times they go before my final creams. Occasionally, I apply them last of all (but only when I forget to use them earlier).

Skincare by Moonlight 2019
The skincare community is so wonderful that we now mail sheet masks and hand written letters to one another.

Now we get to full-face treatments! This is when I use Scinic Honey All In One Ampoule (blog post here), and/or a sheet mask. I sometimes use my sheet masks after just one layer of toner, or after toners but before serums, or after the serums have had a wait-time but before other full-face treatments, or after full face treatments but before creams, or... You get the idea, I get sheetfaced whenever I damn well please.

Another type of product that I love to use before creams are gels and emulsions. I have several open and I typically only use one per routine so these generally aren't layered over one another. I generally, but not always, use these post sheet-masking:

  • Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel
  • Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Gel (see a full review and a comparison with the Hanyul Calming Gel here)
  • Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Fluid
Skincare by Moonlight 2019
My stash of creams is rather over the top admittedly


Since we are back to creams, let's finish up my routine outline now. After the gels have absorbed I apply a layer of Cerave Moisturizing Lotion or its store-brand dupe; Life Brand Moisturizing Lotion. I have several creams open at this moment but I don't use them in every routine. I'll give each one a little summary:

  • KEEP COOL SHINE CREAM - tone-up cream that I consider to be more of a makeup item than a skincare product. I don't use this almost at all. All Keep Cool products shown here were gifted to me by the brand.
  • KEEP COOL OCEAN CREAM - imagine if the famous Laneige Water Sleeping Mask actually smelled good and came in a better packaging format. I genuinely love this one!
  • KEEP COOL SOOTHE CREAM - a fully mousse textured cream that soothes redness and absorbs into skin weightlessly. Lovely, but too light for harsh, dry winter weather.
  • Eleven Huesday PHA Refining V. Ceramide Cream - I'm in the middle of testing a batch of Eleven Huesday products, all of which were gifted to me by Korean Kiwi Beauty. This cream sits halfway into the category of 'actives' and I'm still figuring it out.
  • LadyKin Affinitic Snail Cream - newly opened because I have no other snail in my routine and I haven't for some time. I'm hoping for a hydration boost when I use it before applying my Cerave Moisturizing Lotion.


At this point is when I would apply facial oils, or The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane. Of course, that is for the evening routine only because during the day time I often drastically cut back on the number and type of products I use. My day time routine concludes with the application of sunscreen and my evening routine concludes with a sleeping pack. Respectively those are Secret Key Thanakha Mild Sun Cream SPF47 PA+++, and COSRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask.

Skincare by Moonlight 2019
Masks and Morganite

I use two different lip sleeping masks as well because once again; I am extra AF. The Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask is overhyped and underwhelming. It's a decently nice berry-scented lip balm with a big big price tag. I love the Aritaum Overnight Lip Mask because it actually lasts all night. It's sticky and highly occlusive and my lips have never been happier.

So there you have it! A huge overview of my routine and products and more information than anyone ever needs! If you actually read this far you are truly a knight and a scholar and a Glowie (^‿^)
January 29, 2019 4 comments

Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil


I have been using Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil since January 1st 2018, and these are my thoughts about this product. Spoiler Alert: it's not my favourite.. but it could be yours!

I bought it from a seller on eBay back in early October but due to shipping delays I did not receive it until the middle of December. By that time I had already begun using Banila Co. Clean It Zero and so I wasn't ready to add the Illi to my routine just then. I am doing my best to test products in a fair manner by using them for a long enough period of time to get a real feel for how they work for me. This review is based on having used 3/4 of the bottle of Illi, approximately 100mL of Banila Co Clean it Zero, 75mL of Heimish All Clean Balm, and a sampling of others. During this period I have used a lot of different leave-on skincare products, but I kept my second cleanser constant. You can see a lot more about my products and routine by checking out my spreadsheet.

Cleansing with oil has been a big part of my routine right from the start. I have very acne prone skin despite being in my thirties because it's pretty much always been this way. I have been trying to work with the skin I was born with ever since I began getting acne at the tender age of eleven. You can learn more about my history here. 

I never wore much makeup because my ideal was to have perfect skin that didn't need any cover. Haha, joke's on me. I had cystic acne all throughout my teenage years and up to my mid-20s. Even now in my early thirties I still have a fair bit of acne but thankfully no cysts. What kick-started my journey in to AB was the reality of aging with its fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.

Avoiding further damage means wearing a daily sunscreen in the proper quantity of 2mg/cm^2, or about 1/2 teaspoon for face and neck. I plan to review a bunch of sunscreens later because I am in the process of trying about 6 different ones in order to find my ideal daily driver. For now though, the focus of this post is on how to get that sunscreen OFF.

In the name of the moon I will punish you!!
The signature move - sourced from giphy 
Others have written extensively on the virtues of double cleansing, arguably the signature move and most important step in a Asian Beauty routine. Double cleansing also happens to be my favourite part of the whole routine. I typically zen out for 20+ minutes massaging the oil into my face. I am perhaps unusual in this preference because it seems that many AB lovers quickly cruise through the double cleanse in order to get to the 'meat' of the routine; that being all of the amazing toners, skins, essences, serums, lotions, emulsions, masks, creams, packs, and more available to those of us willing to look beyond the aisles of our local drugstores.

I get that, I do. BUT some of my best results to date have been specifically due to prolonged oil massage plus the use of lactic acid, and later tretinoin. The acid clears the surface layers of dead skin and the long massage makes the closed comedones nearly jump from my pores. My skin has become dramatically smoother and more acne-free because I spend the time nearly every night to let the oil permeate deep into my pores. Funnily enough, I'm not sure it really matters what oil you use. As long as the oil you choose has enough time to mix with the natural oils of your face, I'm quite confident it will remove the debris of the day.

This review is supposed to be about the Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil, but to be honest it's not the one for me. I really wanted to get my hanbang on and Fiddy from Fifty Shades of Snail declared this cleansing oil as her HG back in 2015. The Beauty Witches loved it too, so what is my problem?? I figured I could skip the search and just fall in love, but alas no. Still, I really do like it just not enough to repurchase it. The scent and texture were originally part of the appeal of the Illi Cleansing Oil but in the end I want a thicker, less scented oil.

Banila Co Clean it Zero and Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil
The make a fetching pair, do they not?

It begins as a thin-textured oil which spreads quickly and smoothly across my skin. In order to get enough for my face and neck I use 3 full pumps and I smooth on each individual pump before drawing more. I lightly rub the cleansing oil around so that I can be sure I've covered everything and sometimes I let it sit undisturbed for a few minutes to really settle in. Most of the time I just jump right into the massage. I find that the Illi takes longer to break up my sunscreen than both plain olive oil and Banila Co. Clean It Zero. It also begins to thicken and sort of gum up as I get into the 10 minute mark of my massage. The Illi cleansing oil loses a lot of its slip and generally feels unpleasant to use after fifteen minutes. This is partly the fault of certain sunscreens because it does not gum up equally for all products.

The smell changes too. It starts out lovely with scents of honey and flowers, and then quickly moves into a more gentle floral and herbal tone. Then the oil takes on a vegetal scent which is pleasant at first but seems to get kind of gross and cloying about the same time the oil changes in texture.

In contrast with Banila Co. Clean It Zero, the Illi just can't keep up. Banila Co. Clean It Zero spreads easily just like the Illi does but it actually stays smooth and slippy no matter how long I decide to massage my face. Likewise, the scent starts out soft and pleasantly fruity and then stays that way. It does fade with time, but I vastly prefer that to being assaulted with the smell of strange vegetable matter. If you search 'Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil' on r/AsianBeauty you will find tonnes of glowing reviews. People are saying that this oil smells amazing, washes away cleanly, and doesn't strip skin of all its natural goodness so it leaves your face soft and happy. They are all completely accurate too.

If I was the kind of person who moved efficiently through the double cleanse I would probably love this oil. The bottle is cute, the initial smell is great, it emulsifies and washes away swiftly, and you get to move on with the rest of your routine in no time. I would definitely recommend this to people just getting used to the idea of using an oil cleanser because the pump format makes it much more space efficient and easy to use versus the tub and spatula of Clean It Zero. For myself however, I will not be repurchasing. It is on the pricier side too at about 25CAD for 200mL of oil so I have steered budget-minded friends away from it.

My rating therefore is three out of five:

3/5 - I will not be repurchasing this product despite the fact that it appears to be good value

To see how I rate products click here.

I have already purchased DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, however I have decided not to open it until I have used the last drops left in the bottle of Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil. DHC was recommended to me over and over again by various AB-minded folks so I took the plunge. It costs even more, at 35CAD per 200mL, so this had better be good  ಠ_ಠ

I am not affiliated in any way with any brands and these products were purchased by me with my own money. I am reviewing them because I feel strongly that more reviews of more products leads to better information for everyone.
May 13, 2018 No comments
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Acne AHA Benton BHA Blog Cleansing Oil Comparison Cosrx Cream Double Cleanse Exfolation Eye Cream Foaming Cleanser Gel Gifted Product Hanbang Hanyul Holika Holika Honey Hyaluronic Acid Illi Jolse Lactic Acid Laneige Lip Balm Missha Moisturizer Niacinamide Olivarrier Operla Overexfoliation OXY Progress Repurchase Review RoseRoseShop Routine Scinic Serum Sleeping Pack Sunscreen The Ordinary Toner

Blog Archive

  • ▼  2019 (2)
    • ▼  January (2)
      • A Routine: An Overview of My Current Products
      • A Review: Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Gel
  • ►  2018 (9)
    • ►  May (2)
    • ►  March (2)
    • ►  February (3)
    • ►  January (2)

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