There are some key points that Benton emphasizes about their new product; one of which is that the word "redness" in the title of the product is meant to encompass "skin concerns, irritated skin, blemishes, and uneven skin tone". Benton states that their gel:

• "contains more than 80% of natural Centella Asiatica ingredients harvested in Korea." 
• "allows instant nourishment and hydration while actively soothing irritated skin to help skin become healthy and clear." 
• "does not have oily ingredients and instead, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, and other botanical hydrating ingredients." 
• "[allows] consumers of all skin types, including people that tend to stay away from oily products, to use without discomfort." And also "consumers with dry skin can use the gel before applying cream to maintain oil-water balance." 
• "contains Centella Asiatica Extract harvested from eco-friendly Korean plantations, which is good for soothing, protecting, and healing the skin." 
• "is free of artificial fragrance, volatile alcohol, PEGs, and other harmful ingredients." 

Centella Asiatica was definitely the star ingredient of 2018! This skincare darling has been making appearances in nearly every brands's product line up, across every price-point. So why is Centella so hot right now? Let's take a closer look at it!

Zoolander reference because I'm super old now, apparently

Centella Asiatica is known as Gotu Kola in India and Sri Lanka, Yomogi in Japan, Ssuk in Korea, Huanghua Ai in China, and Cica in France. Cica is a shortening of the word 'cicatrice' which is French for 'scar' because French pharmacy skincare brands were the first to internationally popularize the use of Centella Asiatica for the treatment of scars. They were not the first to use Centella though, and credit for knowledge of its medicinal uses belongs to India and China.

Centella also has a charming story to help back its popularity. To quote Benton once again: "Centella Asiatica is also known as Tiger Grass because it is said that tigers lie down in Centella Asiatica grass after getting wounded and their wounds would heal after being in contact with the grass. It is also known that the herb is used to cure skin diseases, used as remedies, and [as a medicinal plant] in parts of India. Centella Asiatica is used as the main ingredient in many ointments because of its famous skin soothing and healing properties."

Western Medicine doesn't have a lot of studies to back up the efficacy and use of Centella Asiatica, but there appears to be a fair amount of research and writing about it from non-English sources. Like most plant extracts, it is the components inside that do most of the heavy lifting. The active components of Centella Asiatica are madecassoid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid. It is important to note that plants are not consistent in the amount and types of active components that they produce due to things like soil quality, water quality, harvesting technique, and extraction technique. By sourcing their Centella from one specific location, Benton is doing their best to maintain a consistent level of active components.

The megaphone and the little bump caricature are.. something

I have been using the Centella Gel on my face since December 26, 2018. I typically apply it during both my morning and evening routines, after my serums but before my creams. My routines tend to be a bit extra so I was able to incorporate the gel without disrupting my other products. Speaking of which, my very first impression of the Goodbye Redness Centella Gel is that it plays nice with other products. I have not experienced any pilling or difficulty in layering the gel with any of my other skincare steps.

I've goofed around with its placement in my routine just for the sake of experimentation but in general I prefer to use Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Gel post-serums and sheet masking. I already had a gel in my routine; the beloved HG-status Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel. In this review I will compare them against each other.

I have used, emptied, repurchased, and gifted to friends and family, whole 250mL tubs of Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel. When I was selected to review Benton's new gel I thought to myself that there way NO WAY it could ever usurp my beloved Hanyul. After using them side by side for two weeks, I can maybe admit that Benton is giving my beloved a run for its money.

Speaking of money, let's talk about cost: the price for Benton's 100mL tube ranges between $16-20 USD. I have paid anywhere from $15-25 USD for the 250mL tub of Hanyul depending on where it is being stocked. That gives us a comparative cost of $0.20 USD per mL of Benton versus $0.10 USD per mL of Hanyul. So the Hanyul is literally half the cost! However, the Hanyul gel can be a little harder to get reliably outside of Korea. Being an Amore Pacific brand, Hanyul is dead easy to get in Korea, but I live in Canada so I must rely on various online retailers to fulfill my needs. Benton also needs to be purchased online, but due to their prolific presence on the sites of English-speaking retailers, they are very easy to get. Benton even has their own eBay store which makes things extra easy to access.

See? So many jars of Hanyul!

The next easiest talking point is packaging. Benton's tube format is much more hygenic and portable than the huge tub of Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel. I have considered decanting the Hanyul into a tube for easier portability but I absolutely love the *poof* of fragrance that I get every time I dig in to the jar. Benton Goodbye Redness Calming Gel is unfragranced and has no detectable scent to me. For folks bothered by fragrance, this is a huge boon.

Naturally, the ingredients of both gels are extremely different because they feature different star ingredients. For Benton, Centella is the star as well as the darling skincare ingredient of 2018. Let's get into Benton's ingredients:

Centella Asiatica Extract (80%), Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol (Ecocert), Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Oleanolic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Sucrose Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol

[EDIT JANUARY 12, 2019 - Benton has additional information on their dermatological testing that I missed earlier. My bad, guys. My bad]

They provide a n-value!

Benton claims that they have had their gel tested dermatologically and that it has an irritation value of 0.00 (non-irritating). To be perfectly frank, I don't know what that means. Is there a standardized irritation patch test used in dermatology and cosmetics, and is there a certification/validation process? I don't know. In my personal experience, ingredients that are non-irritating to some are highly irritating to me. I'm looking at YOU lanolin. Nothing in Benton's ingredient list is irritating to my skin but you need to check and test for your own personal sensitivities.

For me, this gel feels very cooling and soothing. I like that the cooling sensation lasts and that it isn't due to the addition of menthol or mint oils. I really do feel like this Centella Gel gently lowers the surface temperature of my skin, which is often overheated. I think that excessive heat and irritation causes inflammation and acne along my cheeks so I love that this gel works to soothe my skin. The Goodbye Redness Centella Gel is also quite hydrating. I think that if you live in a humid climate, or if you have very oily skin, you will be able to use this as your final moisturizer. I live in a very dry, very windy climate so I need heavier occlusive layers to hold my hydration in. Nonetheless, I can remain comfortable for some time with just the gel on my skin before I apply my creams.

I attempted to take before and after pictures, as you can see. It was difficult to really see the difference at first until I was extremely zoomed in, and even then the difference can perhaps be attributed to slightly different lighting. When Benton says "Goodbye Redness" I do believe them but not in an immediate redness-reducing way. It's more that soothed skin is less red overall than flushed, hot, or irritated skin. And actually, my skin is better right now than it ever has been since my early teenage years. Perhaps if my skin was more irritated (no thanks) then the immediate difference would be much more visible. In any case, my skin has been feeling good lately and this gel may be playing a part in that.

So would I recommend buying it? Yes, I would.

If you like the ingredients and you want to add a gel to your routine, then go for it! The tube packaging and the easy accessibility make Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Gel a good choice for both experienced skincare buyers and k-beauty newbies alike. Therefore I rate this as a 4/5

4/5 - I like it. I would strongly consider purchasing it again or even gifting it to a loved one

To see how I create my rating, click here.

As of right now the Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel is still my favourite gel moisturizer, however I need more time with the Benton Centella Gel in my routine before I make a final judgement. I am experimenting with using the Centella Gel around my eyes before eye cream and I feel comfortable doing so because of the gentle ingredients and lack of fragrance. If it can work nicely with both the sensitive skin around my eyes and help my eye creams to work better then I will let the world know!

Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid has been a huge part of my routine since mid November of 2017. Since I am very acne-prone I use it daily, and sometimes twice daily. I had a period of time in January 2018 where my acne was flaring up and I couldn't seem to get it under control so I switched to using The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution and Oxy Deep Pore Medicated Acne Pads with 2% salicylic acid. Things got worse: my acne persisted and my skin became even more irritated. I switched back to Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid and my skin gradually began to recover from irritation. However, I am not saying that it was the two salicylic acid containing products that caused the acne or the irritation.

I have been making all kinds of skincare mistakes despite supposedly knowing better. I ended up somewhat over-exfoliated recently due to a combination of things, as well as finding out the hard way that one of my trigger ingredients is lanolin. Long story short: Eucerin Aquaphor causes my skin to break out in painful little pustules that aren't fixed by applying acne solutions. It took me a while to realize that my acids were only worsening the problem by weakening the already irritated skin barrier that I would then apply more Aquaphor to fix. Once I ditched the Aquaphor the pustules healed and I was no longer stuck in the cycle of trying to treat a reaction as acne.

I have played around with The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution and the Oxy Deep Pore Medicated Acne Pads since ditching Eucerin Aquaphor, and they have not caused anywhere near the level of irritation I previously experienced. However, I still don't like using them as much. Why? Well, the Oxy Pads are rough, stinky and very drying, and The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution can be drying as well. These problems are not entirely the fault of the 2% salicylic acid that they contain. It's likely that my skin prefers Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid not because of the 4% betaine salicylate it contains, but because of the overall formulation. Let's look at the ingredients for all three products.

BHAs all day

Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (list taken from Ulta): Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Water, Butylene Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Hexanediol.

*sings* One of these things is not like the other..

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution (from their website): Aqua (Water), Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethoxydiglycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.

See? Look at how rough that pad is!

Oxy Deep Pore Medicated Acne Pads (transcribed from container): Salicylic Acid 2%, Non-Medicinal Ingredients: Fragrance, Isoceteth-20, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, Purified Water, SD Alcohol 40D, Triethanlomine, Trisodium EDTA.


Looking at all three lists of ingredients doesn't really clarify things. For one thing, I don't think the ingredients on the container of Oxy Pads is in order of most to least, rather it looks like alphabetical ordering. Why else would Fragrance be listed before Purified Water? Nonetheless, alcohol is apparent in the smell and feel of the liquid which is probably why these pads are very drying. I also really dislike the rough texture of the pad. It's very scratchy feeling ◉_◉

The difference between the ingredient lists for Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid and The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution doesn't tell me much about why my skin prefers one over the other. To really find out, I will probably have to quit using the Cosrx for around 3 months and use The Ordinary instead. I'm not super keen to do that right at the moment since I like how the Blackhead Power Liquid feels under my other layers of skincare. Instead, we'll look at what are the differences between salicylic acid and betaine salicylate, and why they are used in concentrations of less than 2% and 4% respectively.

Let's begin with salicylic acid since it's what I am more familiar with; having used it on and off since I was eleven years old. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, originally derived from willow bark. Currently, it can be derived from a number of other sources including wintergreen, peanuts, licorice root, calendula (marigold), plantain, and wheat. The proper chemical name is 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid and Health Canada has it listed on its Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist in the List of Ingredients that are Restricted for Use in Cosmetic Products. Surprisingly there isn't a tonne of other information to be found on Health Canada's site specifically pertaining to salicylic acid. All I've got is: "For topical use only. Permitted at concentrations equal to or less than 2%." Okie dokie then.

In Canada and the U.S. its concentration is capped at 2% for leave-on topical preparations (with the exception of certain foot condition treatments) but in Korea it is limited to 0.5%. At that low of a concentration it is unlikely to be effective for people suffering from severe acne. I believe this is why Cosrx has chosen to use betaine salicylate since the maximum allowable concentration is much higher. I have yet to find what the official maximum allowable concentration is, but I have not seen any product using higher than 4% betaine salicylate. One source states that 4% betaine salicylate acts the same as 2% salicylic acid, but I haven't seen any hard data to support that statement. Betaine salicylate has virtually no information listed about it on Health Canada. It is not mentioned whatsoever in Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. Nor, is it listed in the Cosmetics Ingredient Review, the Cosmetics Info, the Cosmetics and Toiletries, nor the Prospector databases. To me this indicates that either it is sufficiently uncommon and therefore merits no mention, OR it is completely safe with no side effects at all. My guess is the former.

Well that didn't clarify much. Image source 1 and source 2

Betaine salicylate is an ester of salicylic acid, meaning that a salicylic acid molecule has undergone a process called esterification in order to attach a betaine molecule. I last took chemistry in high school so I honestly can't completely understand the process. What I've read is essentially that the salicylic acid is placed in a waterless alcoholic solution and has a betaine molecule attached to it. Chemistry is magic, guys.

So what about the the betaine part of betaine salicylate? What is it and why is it there? Betaine is an amino acid derivative originally discovered in sugar beets. There are many types of betaine, but in skincare the type you find is actually trimethylglycine or TMG. You probably have seen it in many of your own skincare products because it acts as a skin conditioner and moisturizer, and is generally considered as a soothing superstar. If you check the ingredients in your hair care products you'll almost definitely find betaine because of the characteristic silky feeling that it imparts. This article from 2010 quickly summarizes some of the studies about betaine's safety, uses, and benefits. Most notable in my opinion is that "betaine has a good anti-inflammatory action on superficial inflammatory lesions". Less red and swollen acne spots gets a win in my book!

Alright, so they put the salicylic acid and betaine together to form betaine salicylate. Now what? From Patent US3002886A: "Betaine salicylate is slightly soluble in water (0.74 gram percent at 25 C.), and the pH of the saturated aqueous solution is pH 2.7. The compound is soluble in methanol, ethanol and isopropanol and insoluble in anhydrous ether and petroleum benzine. Betaine salicylate is not hygroscopic and is stable to heat and light."

When I first read that I had trouble understanding what 0.74 gram percent actually meant in practical terms. Particularly since 'gram percent' is non-standard notation these days. After some reading and using this great guide, I determined that the author means w/w% which is definitely something I have seen on my products without ever knowing what it meant. In fact, if you scroll up to the image of the container of Oxy pads and look closely at the right-most image you will see it too! Right there, on the line for medicinal ingredients it says "Salicylic Acid 2.0% w/w". Huh, why did I always ignore the w/w? Welp, the more you know I guess.

Okay, but if you can only dissolve 0.74g of betaine salicylate into 100g of water (or mL since they are equivalent for pure water in standard atmospheric condition) to reach a saturated solution, how can my skincare product have a 4% (ie. 4g betaine salicylate to 100g water) concentration? I am going to skip answering that question because I can't do it without going even further off-topic. Let's just say it has to do with the other solvents like butylene glycol, dimethyl isosorbide, and alcohol present in the formulations of the products we're talking about. I can't go down every rabbit hole, despite my natural inclination to so I'm noping right out of this one.

I pretty much only use these guys now since the OXY pads are ouch!

In conclusion, I don't think I answered my questions at all. I feel like I know less now that I did when I first began. There are so many factors in the formulation of a skincare product, and even more when that skincare product contains active ingredients. I hope that you learned something from reading this overly long post and if I have made mistakes, pleasepleaseplease correct me by commenting below!

To learn more about the power of acids in skincare, please check out Lab Muffin and her fantastic guides. There are lots and lots of blog posts about beta hydroxy acids and more over at Point of Interest, Vanity Rex, Graceful Face, Simple Skincare Science, The Wanderlust Project, Beauty Brains, Elizabeth Renee, and Escaping Mars.

Further Reading (but if you don't want to, that's okay)

Skincare Guide to Beta Hydroxy Acids

International Journal of Cosmetic Sciences

Comparison study of glycolic acid versus salicylic acid for sun damage

Salicylic acid as a skin whitening ingredient

Salicylic acid in wash-off products

Plant based sources of salicylic acid and other acne treatments

Delivery methods for salicylic acid in skincare

Sodium salicylate for anti-aging


Sources relating to the creation and purchase of betaine salicylate and salicylic acid

Patent for creating tablets of betaine salicylate

Cosmetics and Toiletries profile of salicylic acid

Prospector profile of salicylic acid

Prospector data relating to purchase of salicylic acid

Prospector data relating to purchase of betaine salicylate

in-cosmetics Korea data relating to purchase of betaine salicylate

I have been using Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil since January 1st 2018, and these are my thoughts about this product. Spoiler Alert: it's not my favourite.. but it could be yours!

I bought it from a seller on eBay back in early October but due to shipping delays I did not receive it until the middle of December. By that time I had already begun using Banila Co. Clean It Zero and so I wasn't ready to add the Illi to my routine just then. I am doing my best to test products in a fair manner by using them for a long enough period of time to get a real feel for how they work for me. This review is based on having used 3/4 of the bottle of Illi, approximately 100mL of Banila Co Clean it Zero, 75mL of Heimish All Clean Balm, and a sampling of others. During this period I have used a lot of different leave-on skincare products, but I kept my second cleanser constant. You can see a lot more about my products and routine by checking out my spreadsheet.

Cleansing with oil has been a big part of my routine right from the start. I have very acne prone skin despite being in my thirties because it's pretty much always been this way. I have been trying to work with the skin I was born with ever since I began getting acne at the tender age of eleven. You can learn more about my history here. 

I never wore much makeup because my ideal was to have perfect skin that didn't need any cover. Haha, joke's on me. I had cystic acne all throughout my teenage years and up to my mid-20s. Even now in my early thirties I still have a fair bit of acne but thankfully no cysts. What kick-started my journey in to AB was the reality of aging with its fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.

Avoiding further damage means wearing a daily sunscreen in the proper quantity of 2mg/cm^2, or about 1/2 teaspoon for face and neck. I plan to review a bunch of sunscreens later because I am in the process of trying about 6 different ones in order to find my ideal daily driver. For now though, the focus of this post is on how to get that sunscreen OFF.

The signature move - sourced from giphy

Others have written extensively on the virtues of double cleansing, arguably the signature move and most important step in a Asian Beauty routine. Double cleansing also happens to be my favourite part of the whole routine. I typically zen out for 20+ minutes massaging the oil into my face. I am perhaps unusual in this preference because it seems that many AB lovers quickly cruise through the double cleanse in order to get to the 'meat' of the routine; that being all of the amazing toners, skins, essences, serums, lotions, emulsions, masks, creams, packs, and more available to those of us willing to look beyond the aisles of our local drugstores.

I get that, I do. BUT some of my best results to date have been specifically due to prolonged oil massage plus the use of lactic acid, and later tretinoin. The acid clears the surface layers of dead skin and the long massage makes the closed comedones nearly jump from my pores. My skin has become dramatically smoother and more acne-free because I spend the time nearly every night to let the oil permeate deep into my pores. Funnily enough, I'm not sure it really matters what oil you use. As long as the oil you choose has enough time to mix with the natural oils of your face, I'm quite confident it will remove the debris of the day.

This review is supposed to be about the Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil, but to be honest it's not the one for me. I really wanted to get my hanbang on and Fiddy from Fifty Shades of Snail declared this cleansing oil as her HG back in 2015. The Beauty Witches loved it too, so what is my problem?? I figured I could skip the search and just fall in love, but alas no. Still, I really do like it just not enough to repurchase it. The scent and texture were originally part of the appeal of the Illi Cleansing Oil but in the end I want a thicker, less scented oil.

The make a fetching pair, do they not?

It begins as a thin-textured oil which spreads quickly and smoothly across my skin. In order to get enough for my face and neck I use 3 full pumps and I smooth on each individual pump before drawing more. I lightly rub the cleansing oil around so that I can be sure I've covered everything and sometimes I let it sit undisturbed for a few minutes to really settle in. Most of the time I just jump right into the massage. I find that the Illi takes longer to break up my sunscreen than both plain olive oil and Banila Co. Clean It Zero. It also begins to thicken and sort of gum up as I get into the 10 minute mark of my massage. The Illi cleansing oil loses a lot of its slip and generally feels unpleasant to use after fifteen minutes. This is partly the fault of certain sunscreens because it does not gum up equally for all products.

The smell changes too. It starts out lovely with scents of honey and flowers, and then quickly moves into a more gentle floral and herbal tone. Then the oil takes on a vegetal scent which is pleasant at first but seems to get kind of gross and cloying about the same time the oil changes in texture.

In contrast with Banila Co. Clean It Zero, the Illi just can't keep up. Banila Co. Clean It Zero spreads easily just like the Illi does but it actually stays smooth and slippy no matter how long I decide to massage my face. Likewise, the scent starts out soft and pleasantly fruity and then stays that way. It does fade with time, but I vastly prefer that to being assaulted with the smell of strange vegetable matter. If you search 'Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil' on r/AsianBeauty you will find tonnes of glowing reviews. People are saying that this oil smells amazing, washes away cleanly, and doesn't strip skin of all its natural goodness so it leaves your face soft and happy. They are all completely accurate too.

If I was the kind of person who moved efficiently through the double cleanse I would probably love this oil. The bottle is cute, the initial smell is great, it emulsifies and washes away swiftly, and you get to move on with the rest of your routine in no time. I would definitely recommend this to people just getting used to the idea of using an oil cleanser because the pump format makes it much more space efficient and easy to use versus the tub and spatula of Clean It Zero. For myself however, I will not be repurchasing. It is on the pricier side too at about 25CAD for 200mL of oil so I have steered budget-minded friends away from it.

My rating therefore is three out of five:

To see how I rate products click here.

I have already purchased DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, however I have decided not to open it until I have used the last drops left in the bottle of Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing Oil. DHC was recommended to me over and over again by various AB-minded folks so I took the plunge. It costs even more, at 35CAD per 200mL, so this had better be good  ಠ_ಠ

I am not affiliated in any way with any brands and these products were purchased by me with my own money. I am reviewing them because I feel strongly that more reviews of more products leads to better information for everyone.

The above is taken from the Canadian Holika Holika website, but the formatting was done by me. The brand also states that the Honey Extract and Acerola Extract are present in quantities of 20% each. Iffy ingredients are the ethanol and added colours, but I can see why they would be in there. The alcohol is needed to help the pack to dry and the colours are likely there to give a more honeyed appearance to the finished product. Since I personally experienced no irritation, breakouts, or otherwise negative reactions, I will not be dropping the final score I give. However, as with all things skincare, your mileage may vary.

Honey Pot Honey Pot Honey Pot

The first few nights I used it were not the greatest. For one thing, I put on way, way too much. I also used my finger to apply the mask which I believe is a mistake. The first time I used a cheap (and adorable!) liquid foundation brush to apply the sleeping pack was like a revelation in itself. I had lovely skin on the mornings after applying the mask with my fingers, but I had plump, glowing, calm skin after I switched to the brush for application. Not only that, but I was using less product and it would dry down more quickly.

I didn't realize until tonight that I never took a picture of the full length of my brush in all its mermaid tailed glory.

That is probably the one failing of this, and perhaps all, sleeping packs. They take a while to dry down enough that I feel comfortable laying on my pillow. I'm a side sleeper no matter how I try to learn back-sleeping, so skincare smears on my pillowcase can be a real problem. I once applied so much of this mask (I think it was only the 3rd time using) that it still wasn't dry after 30 minutes. And I woke up to a sticky honey face stuck to my sticky honey pillowcase. Not cool, man. Not. Cool. As you can see, I learned my lesson and that was never again a problem. However, even after my thin layer, applied by brush, has had lots of time to dry down it will always remain a little sticky. Fly away hairs stick to my face and pajama lint does too. It's cold where I live; flannels are a must but that means the constant supply of lint they produce is here to stay.

On the mornings after using the Holika Holika Sleeping Pack I have to wash my face. It doesn't need to be a full double cleanse, but it has to be more than just a splash of water before moving on. I sincerely hope that this won't be a problem for the sleeping packs I use in the future but I imagine it will be. Next up is the Missha Misa Yei Hyun Jin Bon Sleeping Pack which I have just applied for the first time tonight. Something tells me my dreams will be hanbangin'  *^_^*

Will I repurchase this mask? Probably not. Not because of its failings but because there are just too many other great things to try. The Missha sleeping pack that I opened tonight is a 150mL tube which is going to last positively ages. I also have a pile of samples of Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask, a decant of the Cosrx Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask, and a bad hankering for the Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Mask EX. Okay, you say, but what about the blueberry and canola versions of the Holika Holika mask? Well, I smelled the blueberry one at a friend's house and that smell is NOT for me I tell you what. I find the idea of the canola mask appealing since my house is surrounded by canola fields (fun fact: the old name for canola is rapeseed. RAPESEED) but not appealing enough to pull me away from the lure of sexy new products.

I like it, I recommend it, I would give it to a loved one, but I'm too entranced by the lure of new things to repurchase this mask. If you've used it, let me know in the comments below! I love seeing how differently the same products behave on different people. If you are curious about my rating system and review process click here.

I am not affiliated in any way with any brands and these products were purchased by me with my own money. I am reviewing them because I feel strongly that more reviews of more products leads to better information for everyone.

-redness and flakiness, even in places not usually prone to that kind of problem

-stinging/burning during product application, even when using the most gentle moisturizers

-tight, thin, overly smooth skin

Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately(?), I didn't manifest most of those signs. Instead, I had a month long period where my skin was never quite as smooth as it could be, I had an increase in pimples in my usual areas, my cheeks were a tiny bit more red than usual, the flaky area around my mouth was worse than normal, and I could never achieve 'The Glow'. During this month the weather has been brutally dry and windy, the temperature has shifted drastically, and my central heating has been going non-stop. Can you fault me for thinking it was just the weather screwing with my skin? Plus, I was trying out a new vitamin C and I didn't know what to expect.

It wasn't until I was visiting a kbeauty loving friend that I began to clue in. That evening, I tried out one of her acid serums because I thought my skin needed more exfoliation to get back to smooth. Since the serum was supposed to be considerably gentler than what I had been using I expected to be unaffected. Particularly since its use was followed up by layer after layer of hydrating and emollient products. To top it all off, I even added a sleeping pack and extra facial oil. I woke up the next morning expecting to have The Glow but no. My face was somewhat less red but that was it. A few hours after waking the usual redness was back. My skin felt tight and a little warm, but never anything that seemed extreme.

I continued to be clueless. Later that same day I visited my mother who is generally uninterested in the world of skincare. While we chatted about some of things I had learned she made a tiny, throwaway comment: "Your skin looks a little tight" Suddenly everything clicked into place. It really felt like a moment of epiphany where a light had suddenly turned on. Oh my goodness, what have I done to myself?!?

I immediately went into recovery mode. All acids have been retired to the back of my closet with the exception of Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid. I now use it just once per day instead of twice. Sheetmasking is no longer optional. Once per day I wear a mask for around 30 minutes with hydrating toners, serums and rosehip oil layered under and after the mask. I'm piling on creams, oils and a sleeping pack.

Is all of this giving me breakouts? Yes. However, my skin is softer and smoother than it has been all month, my redness is going down and my flakes are nearly gone. I figure I can deal with pimples once my skin's moisture barrier is repaired.

Going forward I think it's important to be more careful with active ingredients. This time of overexfoliation coincides perfectly with my use of The Ordinary Vitamin C suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. I knew from the first time I used that product that I needed to be careful because it is gritty (read: physically exfoliating) and stung like hell as the little bits of L-ascorbic acid absorbed into my skin at some ungodly low pH. I persisted in using it despite my misgivings so really, this is my own damn fault.

Still, a learning experience has value and I will keep this lesson in mind as I move forward.

Hanyul Pure Artemisia Mild Cleansing Water

Sorry for the bubbles, this had just come out of the mail